From Vienna to the Adriatic: A Week of Stories, Scents, and Surprises

A Balcony, A Ghost, and a Fish That’s Staying Secret

Dear friend,

I didn’t plan on fireworks.

But that’s what we got, three nights in a row, just after midnight, out on the water. From our balcony at the Hotel Kvarner in Opatija, the sky lit up in bursts of light. We had no idea when we booked, but the hotel is fully booked every weekend from June through September — not just by vacationers, but by wedding parties arriving from across Europe. On Friday, Saturday, and Sunday, the celebrations begin. That includes a full pyrotechnic display over the sea. One night we watched attendants in white gloves park Lamborghinis, Bentleys, Ferraris, and Porsches in rows like toys.

The hotel itself is more than beautiful. It’s the oldest hotel on the Adriatic coast, opened in 1884 by the Austrian Southern Railway Company. It was once a sanatorium, then a summer refuge for royalty like Franz Joseph I and dancer Isadora Duncan. The Crystal Hall, rebuilt in 1913 after a fire, still stands grand today.
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We made the hotel our base camp. Every morning we took day trips inland, into the green heart of Istria, where the heat was softer and the crowds thinned. In the afternoon, we returned to swim at the hotel’s private beach, then dressed for dinner as the light changed over the coast.

One of the most memorable visits was to Karlić Truffles, a family whose truffle tradition goes back to 1966. We didn’t go digging. Instead, we watched the dogs work, glass of wine in hand, and looked out across the hills. It smelled like thyme and oak leaves.
→ Meet Karlić Truffles

And yes, our fridge still smells like truffles, even now, weeks later.

Then came IPŠA. We had never heard of it. We found it by chasing a few wrong turns through the forest near a protected natural area. It was hidden and quiet. The tasting room sat on a ridge, open to the breeze. We tried four olive oils. Each one different. You could taste wild herbs, stone, wind, and truffles.

→ Visit IPSA Olive Oil

And just as unexpected, Aura — a small producer of spirits, tucked into a stone house in an old town that feels untouched. They distill fruit brandies, bitter herb liqueurs, a fantastic arancello, and a mysterious spirit made from mistletoe. We didn’t leave empty-handed.
→ See Aura Distillery

But let me tell you a secret.

One of the best meals we had was in a quiet little port near Crna Punta, just a few tables right by the water. No sign, no website, no fuss. Just the sound of cutlery, salt air, and grilled fish that made me forget everything else.

I won’t name it here. If you’re curious, write me. I’ll tell you. But only in private.

“There’s a short clip of the fireworks too — I haven’t decided where to post it yet. Want a peek? Drop me a note.”

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What’s Vienna Doing Without Me?

Even while I’ve been away, Vienna hasn’t paused. If you’re in the city this week, here’s what’s catching my eye:

• 🎬 Rathausplatz Film Festival — Free films under the stars, good food, music, and the glow of the city behind the screen.

• 🎨 Kunst Haus Wien — A new photography exhibit is exploring silence and space. A good place to cool down.

• 🍸 Evening Aperitifs — Try Stadtgarten, Volksgarten Pavillon, or even the Belvedere’s summer garden bar. Vienna knows how to do evenings.

Let me know what you find. I’m always adding to my summer map.

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What’s Next

Some stories arrive when you stop rushing. A new one is forming now, on the edge of memory. A ghost, a girl, and the old shoreline of Opatija. It’s working its way into something. Possibly a book. I’ll tell you more soon.

But for now — breathe in what this summer is giving you. Go where the air is softer. Swim when you can. And always, always eat the fish.

Warmly,
Yolanda